COS-VCE

3-0-Ethyl ascorbyl etherCOS-VCE Description COS-VCE is white crystal or crystalline powder, odorless or with unique odor(characteristic to the material) consisting of ethyl and Vitamin C. 3-0-Ethyl ascorbyl ether which replace the 3rd hydroxyl group of Vitamin C by ethoxy group is more stable than Vitamin C. The molar activity of COS-VCE in simiar to Vitamin C. Specifications Appearance : white crystal or crystalline powder Identity : corresponds Purity(HPLC) : min.95% Ascorbic acid content : min.80% Solution 10% in water : clear and almost colorless Water : max. 2ppm pH(3% in water) : 3~4.5 Heavy metals : max.20 ppm Arsenic : max. 2ppm Chemical structure Molecular formula : C8H12O6 CAS No.86404-04-8 Chemical name : 3-0-Ethyl ascorbyl ether, Vitamin C Ethyl, Ethyl ascorbic acid Uses Degradation prevention of food and cosmetics Drug based on the radical deletion operation Whitening material in cosmetics Approved as material for cosmetics : Approved in Korea and Japan in 1997 Acknowledged by The Korea Food and Drug Administration as a functional whitening material for cosmetics in March 2001. Safety and stabilityVitamin C is predisposed to oxidize by such conditions as heat, air, light and metal and thus to be destroyed easily. When mixed in cosmetics, it deteriorates. COS-VCE is a product that has solved the structural instability of vitamin C and is metabolized in the human body in the manner of vitamin C. It is safe and stable on weak acid skin surface. In the test conducted by the manufacturer, COS-VCE proved to be stable in a buffer solution and the aqueous solution at 40°C for 90days. This result was made possible in that the en-diol structure of Vitamin C became stable and was protected from the metal ions by the action of the ethoxy of the 3rd position. Thus, the cream or suspension mixed with this product is not affected by discoloration or gas. Absorption factorBecause of its own structural instability, vitamin C cannot be absorbed into skin.Whereas, COS-VCE is a water soluble and oil-soluble material and can be absorbed into skin and reach the dermis. Powerful antioxidantMost cosmetics contain a high portion of oil and thus are oxidized easily by ultraviolet rays, high temperature and humidity. When used over their expiration dates or stored poorly, these cosmetics can cause some irritation and problems to skin. For this reason, cosmetic manufacturers generally add antioxidants to their products such as BHT, BHA and vitamin E. However, these antioxidants are oil-soluble and therefore cannot be easily metabolized in the human body. COS-VCE is an antioxidant with a powerful reduction capability that dissolves both in water and oil. It reduces oil peroxide generated within the cosmetics and prevents deterioration. COS-VCE is metabolized inside the human body in the manner of vitamin C. Solubility and applicationVitamin C is a water-soluble antioxidant and cannot be dissolved in any other solvents. Because it is structurally unstable, Vitamin C is limited in its applications. COS-VCE dissolves in a variety of solvents including water oil and alcohol and therefore can be mixed with any prescribed solvents. It can be applied to suspension, cream, lotion, water/oil compound lotion, lotion with solid materials, masks, puffs and sheets. Also, it can be used as a material for whitening and anti-aging skin care products and the medical products that prevent and relieve the fatigue and inflammation of muscles and joints. Whitening effectVitamin C in known for efficiently preventing the formation of melanin. When applied directly on skin, however, it shows no effect for whitening of the skin. In clinical tests conducted on human and animal bodies, COS-VCE has proved to be effective for bleaching and whitening as a mixed form into cosmetics by 2%. It brightens and tones sun-damaged and dull-looking skin with dark spots. Tested substance Sample concentration(%) Rate of inhibition of UV-introduced melanization of DHICA(%) Ascorbic acid(Vitamin-C) 0.1 70 VC-PMG 0.1 20 AA-2G 0.1 20 Ethly ascorbyl ether(COS-VCE) 0.1 80 Ethly ascorbyl ether(COS-VCE) 0.01 40 *VC-PMG : Magnesium-L-ascorbly-2-Phosphate*AA-2G : Ascorbate-2-O-glucoside*European Patent Application by SHISEIDO COMPANY LIMITED, JAPAN Restoration of the formation and synthesis of collagenCOS-VCE reacts to the formation and synthesis of skin cells and collagen in proportion to their consumption. The level of its activation is about the same as that of Vitamin C and ester phosphate COS-VCE restores the activities of collagen including its formation and synthesis. Also, it reduces the copper(II) ion of tyrosinase to diminish its activation and thus prevent the formation of dark spots. Anti-inflammatory effectCOS-VCE works as a powerful anti-inflammatory when applied on the surface of skin. It suppresses the development of serotonin edema, which was proved through the test conducted on laboratory mice. In this test, the mice were first injected with serotonin and developed edema as a result.A gel containing 3% of COS-VCE was then applied to the affected body parts. A dramatic improvement was then seen in the affected areas of the mice. Vitaminc C and Vitamin C Derivatives Mushroom tyrosinase inhibition effect   0.1% 0.5% 1% Vitamin C(Ascorbicacid) 96.7% 96.7% 97.6% Ethyl ascorbyl ether(COS-VCE) 40.5% 89.4% 95.7% VC-PMG 0 4.9% 6.1%